Patagonia: Durability for Sustainability

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                I figured I could follow up my last post about sustainable fashion brand Osklen by talking about another clothing brand that has sustainability at its core, Patagonia. The outdoors company has been selling high quality outdoor gear for over 40 years. Their target demographic is the “dirt bag,” basically the kind of person who is comfortable in the backcountry than in the suburbs. However, over the years their gear has become incredibly popular with those suburban and urban dwellers who don’t quite need the gear for what it is intended for. In the recent Slate article I read they refer this loyal consumer base as the “dog walkers.”

                I have to admit, I hadn’t heard of Patagonia until I came to school at University of Richmond, where EVERYONE wears Patagonia. I discovered that just like at my high school where The North Face was extremely popular, Patagonia was a fashion statement here. So it wasn’t long before I ended up with my own piece of Patagonia. I tell myself I deserve to own a piece of Patagonia since I consider myself outdoorsy, or at least more outdoorsy than the majority of people sporting the label.

                I purchased these shoes for $20 at the REI garage sale that I attended with members of the University of Richmond Outdoors club. They are originally $65. I absolutely love them. For of those of you who don’t know how REI  works, it is an outdoors store that is organized as a consumers’ cooperative. So once you purchase a membership you receive a dividend return for your purchases at the end of the year, free shipping for store pickups, and best of all returns for any reason at all. When customers return their gear it is stored in the warehouse and throughout the year REI stores will hold garage sales where they will sell all returned merchandise at huge discounts. That’s how I got my first piece of Patagonia so cheap, because someone decided they didn’t fit well enough.

                This method of acquisition perfectly fits one of Patagonia’s initiatives, the Common Threads Initiative, which encourages customers to only buy new products if they really need them. Instead they encourage customers to shop on EBay, thrift stores, and events such as this REI one in order to limit waste. Patagonia’s products are built for durability as well, so their overall plan for consumers is for them to buy only what they need, and wear it until they can’t wear if anymore. If you decide you want a new Patagonia before yours has reached the end of its lifespan, make sure someone else can use it instead of wasting it in a closet somewhere. This approach is very different from most companies, especially fashion companies whose business model is dependent upon selling new lines every season.

                This is why the next time I need a jacket I will be investing in, not purchasing, a Patagonia. Consumers like me can justify the high cost of Patagonia products because they are meant to be seen as an investment. My shoes are no just another pair I might wear if they fit my outfit; they are the shoes I will wear until the soles are gone. I believe that is the difference between the dirt bag and the dog walker. The dirt bag will wear through the soles, the dog walker won’t. I will admit, I’m far from a dirt bag, but that’s the effect that this imagine of Patagonia can have on a dog walker like me. Patagonia might not have set out to change the dog walkers into dirt bags, but I believe that if they continue to stay true their philosophy of durability and sustainability they can have a positive impact through the clothing industry. They can sell for functionality, fashionability, and sustainability all at once.

Osklen Makes Rio+20 Fashionable

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A few weeks ago I was assigned a website brand presentation for a brand from an emerging market. I ended up profiling Osklen, a high-end Brazilian sportswear company. The brand was started in 1989 by Brazilian entrepreneur Oskar Metsavaht. Metsavaht was a mountaineer who designed his own outdoors gear after noticing a lack of gear being sold in Brazil. Soon thanks to his publicity after becoming the first Brazilian to scale Mont Blanc his brand took off. They began a “lifestyle” fashion line that was inspired by the laid back surf lifestyle of Brazil.Examples from the Phenix collection

The brand takes the laid-back beach inspired look and makes it urban. They do an excellent job representing Brazil as a beautiful country renowned for its beaches and beautiful people, as well as one of the fastest growing nations that is increasing its global presence every year. Even I could appreciate what Metsavaht was doing with his clothes, and I know almost nothing about fashion. So I was even more surprised while exploring Osklen’s website to discover that they are also extremely committed to sustainability.

Metsavaht created Institutio e, is an institute whose mission is “transforming and positioning Brazil as ‘the country’s sustainable human development’, through the creation and management of a network that leverages synergies between different initiatives and actors in society.” It’s quite an impressive goal, but what does it mean exactly? The organization is working to create an online community of “e-brigaders” to support sustainable development in Brazil through a variety of means, but mostly through empowerment by sharing information through social media (check out their Twitter).

The biggest initiative the institute has undergone is the winter collection for 2012. COLECÃO A21 OSKLEN – INVERNO 2012 was inspired by the 20th anniversary of the Rio-92 Conference, and specifically by Agenda 21 which was signed there. The document, which established the importance of each country to seek solutions to the socio-economic and environmental problems of the world, has been one of the most influential international consensus made concerning sustainable development. The collection will be released before June when the Rio +20 United National conference on Sustainable Development will be held. The collection highlights one of the main focuses of Institutio e, to develop “e-fabrics” by “identifying sustainable raw material for use in the textile and fashion supply chain, creating a culture of conscious consumers.” The e-fabrics displayed in this collection are Arapaima and salmon skin, silk and organic cotton, and canvas eco.

I’m excited to see what Osklen will bring to Rio +20. This is the kind of initiative that Agenda 21 was created to do, to help create eco centered companies to cater to eco consumers and help solidify the triple bottom line and create a truly sustainable world. Clothes are what we live our lives in, so why not live life in a sustainable way?